The dimensions for the matching section are dependent on the velocity factor of the coax used.
||Vel. Factor 0.66
||Vel. Factor 0.80
|A to B
|B to C
To connect the shorting stub to the feedline, carefully remove a small section of insulation from the center conductor (no more than 1/4 of an inch). Solder and tape the inner conductor, then join and solder the shields. To insure proper shielding, split a spare piece of braid lengthwise on top of the shield connection, and carefully solder the shield together. Finally, hang up your antenna in an open space, and tune it in with a SWR meter. I have found that adjusting the length of the shorting stub has the most affect in adjusting for minumim SWR.
I purchased a fiberglass bicycle-flag pole from the local bicycle shop, and taped the antenna to it. You could also use heat-shrink tubing over the fiberglass pole and wire, if available. I also like to attach a 2 foot 1/4 inch dowel rod to the bottom part of the antenna. This helps stabilize it while you are riding, and the antenna whips from side to side less. Another thing that helps is to make the antenna more rugged is to slip on a short piece of garden hose and secure it so that where ever your bike frame hits the antenna it will hit the garden hose instead. Finally, I use a “bungie cord” around my rear carrier rack and the antenna for added support.
This antenna can be built in about an hour. Hope to “catch-ya” bicycle mobile some day!
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